Miles and miles of railroad track were laid in order to export the tons of coal being mined from the rich seams of McDowell county’s bountiful mountains.

From Jenkinjones across a wooden trestle still standing today and Leckie through the Gary Country Club golf course and out of Skygusty, from Bishop and Vallscreek to War through Yukon, English, Bartley and down to Bradshaw and Iaeger, miles of track are still in use although some has been retired and even removed.

However, of all the track laid in McDowell county, the most important and still very much used today is the Mainline.

The Mainline travels the hollers from Bluefield in Mercer county, to Maybeury, through many McDowell County communities and towns including Northfork, Keystone, KImball, and Welch before meeting up with the line from Bradshaw into Iaeger.

The mainline has not one, but 2 tracks.

One would think that with 2 tracks, one would act as a vein into McDowell county and the other as an artery out. The problem is, the track only carries goods through McDowell county and the county’s coal out.

Nothing stops along the way to replenish the place that has long fueled the state of West Virginia, the nation, and now other countries of the world.

The mainline not only travels through the hollers, by the rivers, creeks, and streams, through the towns and beside the highways, it makes it’s way through many tunnels in McDowell County’s mountainous terrain.

Twin Branch Tunnel

One such tunnel is the Twin Branch Tunnel.

The Twin Branch tunnel was cut out of pure rock in the 1890’s. At that time, only one line of track had been laid. The tunnel was just big enough to allow the narrow steam engines of the time to puff its load up or down the track.

Because the tunnel provided quick access to shopping in the town of Davy from Marytown instead of going the long way around through the community of Twin Branch, the people would take the shortcut and walk through the tunnel.

One interesting personal story can be found here:
👉 Tunnel between Twin Branch and Davy in the Coalfields of WV

Alice Walker, executive director of SAFE and a lifelong resident of Twin Branch, says that she misses driving through the tunnel. She stated that, as a child, she had been told there was a witch buried somewhere inside the tunnel.

During her high school years, fires were built inside the tunnel to prevent the school bus from traveling through—therefore canceling school for the children on the other side.

Once coal exportation grew and another track was laid, the mainline took a turn and no longer needed to utilize the Twin Branch tunnel.

The track was removed and access to the tunnel was allowed for automobiles to pass through one at a time and became a part of WV route 7.

That tunnel was used until about 2020 by vehicles on a daily basis.

After 2020, the tunnel was closed to daily traffic.

Although, it does to this day attract visitors who walk though, video, and exclaim how awesome it is that it’s still standing and was used for over a century by McDowell county residents.

The railroad has been a lifeline for McDowell county to export and sell our coal. It has provided employment on the rails or by a means of proxy through the coal companies.

We still hear those long train whistles—some seem as ghost trains when you hear them echoing over the mountains.

As long as those whistles continue to blow, McDowell county will continue to thrive.

Take the walk. Stand in the tunnel. Listen for the whistle.

If you would like to know more, check out the links below:

• Bridgehunters - Specifics of the tunnel

• Bramwell, WV - A History of Twin Branch

• Marsha Moses - Blog post telling an old story of the tunnel

• Jacqueline Chanda Fine Art - Oil on Canvas Painting of the tunnel

If you know a McDowell County story that needs told, please contact us!

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We know others will argue that point — every state has its defenders. But West Virginia is different.

No other place is called “Almost Heaven.”

And once you’ve stood on our mountains… you will understand why.

West Virginia is the only state completely within the Appalachian region, and nowhere is that more evident than in the way our mountains surround us.

They don’t just stand.

They hold you.

They rise up like guardians, wrapping around towns and hollows, ridges and valleys — like a quiet voice reminding you:

You are mine.

Mountain Momma cares for us, protects us, and welcomes us home — no matter how far you’ve been.

Our country roads brings us all back home; especially, to McDowell County.

In 2022, West Virginia Tourism launched the Almost Heaven swings — placing large wooden swings at some of the most scenic overlooks across the state.

From mountaintops to parks and overlooks, each swing invites visitors to slow down, sit for a moment, and take in the beauty that surrounds them. In fact, there are now dozens of swings across the state, each offering its own unforgettable view.

In June 2025, McDowell County’s swing found its home on Miracle Mountain, up #9 Hollow in Gary.

There couldn’t have been a more perfect place.

Miracle Mountain has long been part of McDowell County’s story — a place filled with memories, gatherings, and quiet moments. At one time, it was the home of the Sandlick Country Club.

For one woman, it was everything.

Shelby Thompson, the caretaker of Miracle Mountain Wilderness Park, had a dream of bringing an Almost Heaven swing to the mountain she loved.

When that dream finally became reality, her joy was immeasurable.

She was one of the very first to sit on the swing, take in that view, and capture that moment.

Just one month later, Shelby passed away.

Shelby’s dream lives on in every person who drives that country road….
every visitor who sits in that swing…
every photograph taken against the backdrop of McDowell County’s ridges.

What a view it is.

From that seat, the mountains roll out in every direction — ridge after ridge, fading into the horizon. It’s the kind of view that stops conversation. The kind that makes you breathe a little deeper.

The kind that reminds you what Almost Heaven really means.

Travelers now cross the state collecting photos of these swings — one by one, chasing views and memories.

Slowly, but surely, more of them are finding their way to McDowell County.

To Miracle Mountain.
To Shelby’s dream.

While these mountains are home to us…

For visitors, they offer something just as powerful:

A reason to come back.

Make the trip to Miracle Mountain.
Drive our country roads.
Sit in the swing.

And when you do… you’ll understand why we call McDowell County our home.

📍 Miracle Mountain – Gary, West Virginia

A featured stop on the Explore McDowell Tourism Trail

Check out West Virginia Tourism’s Swingo Challenge!

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Through Explore McDowell, we’re sharing the stories, landmarks, and hidden places that make this region unique.

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Joe Coal

Along the winding road of Route 83 in the town of Bradshaw, a silent sentinel stands watch over McDowell County’s coal heritage. Locals know him as “Joe Coal.”

Day after day, Joe Coal stands tall, representing every McDowell County coal miner whose names are etched into the granite slabs surrounding him and beneath his feet. The monument honors generations of miners whose labor deep beneath these mountains helped power America for more than a century.

Coal built McDowell County, West Virginia, and America. It fueled the homes, factories, railroads, and industries that helped shape the modern United States. The miners who worked these seams were known for their grit, determination, and courage—descending daily into the darkness of the earth to extract the fuel that kept the nation moving.

During World War II, coal miners were considered essential to the war effort. The coal they produced helped power the steel mills that forged battleships, tanks, and other equipment used by Allied forces across the Atlantic. In many ways, the work done deep inside McDowell County’s mountains reached battlefields thousands of miles away.

This memorial exists because the community believed those sacrifices should never be forgotten.

In 1992, the Sandy River District Action Committee (SARDAC) organized a grassroots effort to create a monument honoring the county’s miners. Through their dedication—and the support of families across McDowell County—the Coal Miner’s Memorial became a reality. Since then, families have continued adding the names of their fathers, grandfathers, brothers, and sons to the granite panels surrounding Joe Coal.

The memorial remembers not only those lost in mining accidents—explosions, roof falls, blackdamp, and other dangers of underground work—but also those who suffered later in life from black lung and silicosis, illnesses that follow many miners long after they leave the mines.

While the monument honors the miners of the past, it also stands as a reminder that coal mining continues today. Across the mountains of southern West Virginia, modern miners still work hard every day—many in surface mining operations—to produce the coal that helps power homes, industries, and steel production across the country.

Just like the underground miners before them, these men and women continue a tradition of hard work and resilience that has defined the coalfields for generations.

While Joe Coal calls Bradshaw home, he has a distant cousin in nearby Kimball known as “Mack Dowell.” Mack is a figurine made from coal and produced by Coal Camp Creations, a business that celebrates the region’s coal heritage through handcrafted items. For years, Mack was available to visitors, and the town of Kimball looks forward to sharing him with the public again when Coal Camp Creations reopens.

Until then, Joe Coal remains standing strong —lifted up by the memories of the men whose names surround him.

Visitors are welcome to stop and walk among the granite slabs, reading the names of miners who spent their lives underground. Many families discover familiar names among them, a powerful reminder of just how deeply coal mining shaped life in McDowell County.

Why this stop matters

The McDowell County Coal Miner’s Memorial is more than a monument—it is a place of remembrance for the men who built these communities and powered a nation. For travelers exploring McDowell County’s coal heritage, it serves as an important stop along the region’s developing Explore McDowell Heritage Trail, alongside sites like Wilmore Dam and the Ashland Company Store.

It’s a place where history is not just something you read about—it’s carved in stone.

Take a moment to pull over and visit Joe Coal. Walk around the monument and read the names etched into the granite. You may recognize one—or several.

In McDowell County, coal mining history isn’t just part of the past.

It’s part of the family.

Want to add a miner?

The memorial continues to grow. Families who wish to have a miner’s name added to the monument may contact Geneva Steele with SARDAC at (304) 967-7840.

Many riders make it a point to drive down to the dam with the water streaming down as their backdrop and snap a picture before continuing their ride through the mountains. Over time, the dam has become one of those places riders like to say they’ve visited — a quiet landmark along the trail.

The calm water, the surrounding mountains, and the sense of being deep in the Appalachian landscape make it a natural place to pause.

But long before trail riders discovered Wilmore Dam, the reservoir served a very different purpose.

🎥 Watch the ride in to Wilmore Dam below.

Wilmore Dam near Iaeger, West Virginia along Clear Fork in McDowell County.

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Built for the Age of Steam

In the early 1900s, McDowell County was one of the most productive coal regions in the United States. Railroads ran constantly through the valleys, hauling coal from the mountains to industries across the country.

At that time, trains were powered by steam locomotives, and steam engines required enormous amounts of water.

Reservoirs like Wilmore Dam were built to supply that water to locomotives operating along the lines of the Norfolk and Western Railway, which carried coal from the Pocahontas coalfields to markets nationwide.

Located along Clear Fork near Iaeger, Wilmore Dam became part of the infrastructure that helped keep the coal trains moving through southern West Virginia.

Though small compared to the mines and rail yards that once dominated the region, reservoirs like this were an essential part of the system that powered the coalfields.

From Coal Trains to Trail Riders

Today, the steam locomotives that once depended on reservoirs like Wilmore Dam are part of history.

The railroads remain, but the era of steam has long passed.

The mountains of McDowell County, however, remain much the same.

Where coal trains once moved through the valleys, visitors now travel the region’s trails by ATV and UTV, exploring the same hills and ridges that helped shape the county’s past.

And along those trails, places like Wilmore Dam have taken on a new role.

A Photo Stop With a Story

For many riders today, Wilmore Dam is simply a beautiful place to stop — a quiet stretch of water surrounded by mountains.

But behind that peaceful setting lies a reminder of the era when these mountains helped power a nation.

Today, riders stop to take pictures where locomotives once stopped for water.

And in McDowell County, that connection between history, landscape, and the trail is never very far away.

Explore More McDowell County

McDowell County is filled with places like Wilmore Dam — quiet corners of the mountains where history and landscape meet.

Through Explore McDowell, we’re sharing the stories, landmarks, and hidden places that make this region unique.

If you enjoy discovering the history and beauty of southern West Virginia, consider subscribing so you don’t miss future stories.

Music Credit

Acoustic/Folk Instrumental — Hyde
https://soundcloud.com/davidhydemusic
Licensed under Creative Commons CC BY 3.0
Music promoted by Audio Library

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At the height of the coal boom, Keystone was one of the most dynamic towns in southern West Virginia. Immigrants, merchants, Black miners, and entrepreneurs filled its streets. Nearby Welch and Keystone were home to thriving Jewish and African American communities, contributing to the region’s commercial and civic life.

It was here, around 1900, that Matthew T. Whittico made his mark.

Whittico was not merely a resident — he was a voice. In 1904, he founded the McDowell Times, a newspaper devoted to “the interest of the Negro Race — His Social and Political Rights.” For nearly four decades, the paper championed civil rights, education, and political awareness across the coalfields. With a reported circulation of 5,000, it became one of the most widely read newspapers in McDowell County.

It was also Whittico who coined the phrase “Free State of McDowell.”

The words captured the fierce independence and self-determination of a county that, during its coalfield prime, operated with confidence, prosperity, and cultural complexity unlike anywhere else in Appalachia. The phrase remains one of the most powerful expressions of McDowell County identity.

The First Black Presbyterian Church in West Virginia

Whittico’s influence extended beyond the printed page.

Alongside William Drewry, an attorney and educator, and J. A. Davis, a preacher and teacher, he helped establish what would become the first Black Presbyterian congregation in West Virginia.

Completed in 1924, the Whittico Presbyterian Church stood as a spiritual anchor for Keystone’s Black community. Within these walls, sermons were preached, leaders were shaped, and families found strength during an era when opportunity and hardship often stood side by side in the coal camps.

William Drewry’s wife, Elizabeth Drewry, would later become the first Black woman elected to the West Virginia State Legislature in 1950 — another thread in the county’s remarkable story of leadership.

A Living Legacy

As coal production declined in the late twentieth century, so too did Keystone’s population. By 2012, church membership had dwindled to five. Today, one member — Mrs. Vondelere Scott — remains a living link to its congregation’s history.

The nonprofit organization WATT (We Are The Teachers), based in McDowell County, has acquired the church and is working to restore it as a youth community center. The effort ensures that the building will once again serve education, community, and opportunity — the very values Whittico championed.

Why This Stop Matters

The story of McDowell County is more than coal tonnage and company towns. It is a story of voices — of leaders who believed in education, faith, civic responsibility, and the power of the press.

Standing before the Whittico Presbyterian Church, visitors encounter a powerful truth: the Free State of McDowell was built not only by industry, but by individuals who insisted on dignity, representation, and community.

Here, history is not distant. It stands quietly along the roadside — waiting to be rediscovered.

A Sound from the Past

The hymn embedded below was recorded inside Whittico Presbyterian Church and performed by Rhonda Farley in March of 2012. It reflects the sacred atmosphere and enduring spirit of this historic congregation.

📚 Sources & Further Reading

• West Virginia Culture & History Archive

• Digital preservation of the McDowell Times (1904–1941)

• WATT (We Are The Teachers), McDowell County — restoration and organizational history of Whittico Presbyterian Church.

If you enjoy stories that preserve the heritage of the southern West Virginia coalfields, consider subscribing to Explore McDowell.

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Built in 1907 by the Ashland Coal Company, the Ashland Company Store was never just a storefront. It was the commercial, civic, and social heart of the coal camp of Ashland.

From its counters, miners collected wages in scrip (non-legal company issued currency). Families purchased groceries and dry goods. The building housed the company pay office, later the U.S. Post Office, and for decades served as the central gathering point for the community. Behind the store stood a gymnasium, which held basketball games and local events.

In 1943, the original store burned and the warehouse across the street transformed into Ashland’s primary company store. The post office remained in operation there until 1991, tying the small coal camp to the wider world.

For nearly a century, daily life passed through those doors.

The Store Today

More than 100 years after its construction, the Ashland Company Store remains active — not as a relic, but as a working part of modern McDowell County.

Today it serves as a full-service convenience store and outfitter hub, especially for visitors lodging at Ashland Resort or riding the nearby Indian Ridge Trailhead of the Hatfield-McCoy Trails.

Modern offerings include:

- Groceries, snacks, drinks, and everyday essentials

- ATV and riding supplies

- Trail permits and maps

- West Virginia souvenirs

- Polaris RZR rentals for off-road exploration

Inside, the Coal Camp Café serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner — continuing the tradition of the store as a place where people gather, talk, and share stories.

In many ways, the purpose hasn’t changed. The faces may be different — trail riders instead of coal miners — but the building still provides what the community and its visitors need.

A Living Landmark

Unlike many company stores that have disappeared, the Ashland Company Store stands intact and operational. Original architectural features remain visible inside the historic brick structure, preserving the character of the early 20th-century coal era.

Its story reflects the broader story of southern West Virginia:

- Built by coal

- Sustained by community

- Adapted through change

- Still standing

To learn more about current hours, services, or trail access, visit the official site:

👉 Ashland Company Store

The Ashland Company Store is not just a preserved building.

It is proof that history here is not frozen in time — it evolves, adapts, and continues to serve the people of McDowell County.

If you enjoy stories that preserve the heritage of the southern West Virginia coalfields, consider subscribing to Explore McDowell.

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These murders were retaliation to the events that occurred in Matewan on May 19, 1920. On that day, ten people met their Maker after a brutal gun fight in the middle of town. Of those ten, seven were Baldwin-Felts detectives of Bluefield, West Virginia. Of the dead was Al and Lee Felts, brothers of Thomas Felts who had not accompanied them to Matewan. Thomas Felts along with William Baldwin owned the Baldwin-Felts Agency.

However, Hatfield and Chambers were not in Welch for what happened in Matewan. The duo were charged with conspiring to shoot up Mohawk, McDowell County, in an effort to unionize the miners.

At the time of the shooting, Hatfield’s attorney, CJ Van Fleet was in a meeting with McDowell County Prosecuting Attorney GL Counts. Van Fleet had requested a change in venue to Greenbrier County which was granted.

More than one hundred people that day witnessed the heartless murders of the two as they were slain with their wives by their sides. Of those witnesses were LH Ellis, a West Virginia State Trooper and Walter Mitchell, Welch Chief of Police.

The Baldwin-Felts detectives who brazenly stood at the top of the courthouse steps with barrels blazing were CE Lively, Buster Pence, and Bill Salter. Their ruthless actions were typical of the agency detectives who had been hired by coal company owners and operators to evict miners and their families when they would strike against the companies in an effort to unionize. They executed their tasks with cruelty and absolution.

Hatfield and Chambers were unarmed that fateful day in Welch. Ed Chambers had been the first shot, but was not the first to die. As he lay there on the courthouse steps, one of the agents walked down to where he lay and fired a fatal shot into his head as his wife was by his side. The detectives mentioned were indicted for murder; however, they were acquitted as they claimed their actions were self-defense.

The names of Sid Hatfield and Ed Chambers are almost synonymous with the Mine Wars of West Virginia. They stood with the United Mine Workers of America and Mother Jones to fight for the people of the southern coalfields. Their legacy lives on in books, “Matewan” the movie, and “Terror of the Tug” a play written by Jean Battlo, a lifelong McDowell County resident.

As Hatfield’s and Chamber’s bullet ridden bodies laid on the courthouse steps of Welch, McDowell County, West Virginia, the courthouse clock struck eleven.

For more information, please visit the West Virginia Mine Wars Museum and PBS American Experience The Mine Wars.

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The Jack Caffrey Arts & Cultural Center, located at 143 Wyoming Street in Welch, stands quietly along the street, its history written into the brick and mortar. Over the years, this building has served many purposes for the people of McDowell County—first as a post office, then as the Ashworth DeSoto Car Dealership, and later as a NAPA Auto Parts store. Today, it serves once again as a place for the community to gather.

The Center opened its doors in 2019, made possible through the vision of Reba Honaker, former mayor of Welch, who believed McDowell County deserved a space dedicated to the arts, culture, and shared experiences. It was named in honor of Jack Caffrey, one of Welch’s most respected and influential leaders. As chief engineer for U.S. Steel, Caffrey worked to improve life and opportunity in the county, helped bring a federal prison to McDowell County, and played an important role in establishing the McDowell Public Library program.

From the outside, the Caffrey Center is easy to miss, marked only by a simple sign above the door. Step inside, though, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by the story of Coal Country—artifacts from McDowell County, educational memorabilia, and everyday items once found in coal camp homes. For many visitors, these pieces stir memories of family, hard work, and a way of life that shaped the mountains.

The Center has welcomed visitors from across the United States and from places as far away as France, Costa Rica, Germany, the Netherlands, South Wales, and Guatemala, all drawn by the history and hospitality found inside its walls.

Those walls have held more than artifacts. They’ve echoed with music, laughter, and conversation, hosting concerts, weddings, parties, meetings, and community events. In 2022, the Center was proud to host the Smithsonian traveling exhibition Crossroads, further connecting McDowell County’s story to the nation’s larger narrative.

The Center is home to McDowell County Convention & Visitor’s Bureau, Chamber of Commerce, and Historical Society.

The Jack Caffrey Arts & Cultural Center is open Monday from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and Tuesday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Those wishing to host an event or learn more are encouraged to call (304) 436-5392.

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What enters your mind when you first hear the word Coalwood?

For many born and raised in McDowell County, Coalwood brings to mind the community situated between Welch and Caretta along Route 16. We picture the coal camp houses, the machine shop, the company apartments, and the Methodist church — not only in our mind’s eye, but still in existence today.

For those unfamiliar with McDowell County, but familiar with Coalwood, a different image often comes to mind. The film October Sky and the memoir Rocket Boys are usually the first associations.

Coalwood lies within the National Coal Heritage Area and, like many McDowell County communities, was shaped by coal mining through the Olga Coal Company. Coal mining has deep roots in McDowell County and in its people.

However, the Rocket Boys made a decision to travel a different road than the one that led deep into the earth. They chose a path less traveled — one that led to the stars.

In 1957, the Rocket Boys launched the first of many rockets from what is now known as Cape Coalwood. Although they experienced many failures, they also achieved success — launches that ultimately helped shape paths far beyond the coalfields.

After the publication of Rocket Boys and the release of the film October Sky, Coalwood became more than a coal mining community in McDowell County, West Virginia. It became a place where many realized that through hard work and innovation, reaching for the stars was possible — regardless of background, resources, or location.

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Our mission is to share McDowell County’s stories with honesty, pride, and purpose — honoring our past while supporting our future.

This Substack is published by the McDowell County Convention & Visitors Bureau and is dedicated to sharing the stories, places, and people that define McDowell County, West Virginia.

McDowell County is often described through its history alone — its coal heritage, company towns, and Appalachian roots. While that history matters deeply, it is only part of a much larger story. This publication exists to help tell the full picture: where we’ve been, where we are now, and where we’re headed.

What We Share

• Stories from across McDowell County’s towns and communities • Updates on tourism, events, and local attractions
• Features on local history, culture, and heritage
• Spotlights on businesses, artists, and community initiatives

• Reflections on growth, challenges, and opportunity

Who This Is For

This space is for residents, former residents who still feel connected to home, visitors planning to explore the area, and anyone interested in Appalachian culture, rural tourism, and community storytelling.

Free & Paid Subscriptions

Free subscribers receive regular updates, stories, and features highlighting McDowell County’s people, places, and events. Much of this publication will always remain free and accessible.

Paid subscribers help support expanded storytelling and may receive access to in-depth features, special series, archival material, and exclusive updates as this publication grows. Paid subscriptions directly support the continued work of sharing McDowell County’s story.

Stay Connected

If you’d like to follow along, we invite you to subscribe. Subscribing ensures new posts are delivered directly to your inbox and helps support continued storytelling about McDowell County.

— McDowell County Convention & Visitors Bureau

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