With warm weather, the need to get outside, feel the sun on your face, and the wind in your hair gets stronger than ever. Many of us decide to get that iron horse out of the garage and go for a spin. With that first ride under our belts, we are ready to hit the open road on two wheels as much as possible.

In central Appalachia, we have the advantage of having some of the best motorcycle riding within a short distance of our home. In McDowell County, we have “The Head of the Dragon”. This ride begins in the historical town of Kimball and goes 91 miles around the “Free and Independent State of McDowell”. Riders maneuver their bikes around our curvy, mountainous roads that travel through the towns of Kimball, Iaeger, Bradshaw, and Northfork, the cities of Welch, War and Keystone, and all the coal camps in between. No other ride in Appalachia offers the scenery, history, and heritage that the Head of the Dragon offers.

Notable Stops along the Head of the Dragon:

• Kimball — the beginning and end of the ride

  • World War I Memorial Building — the first memorial built in the country to honor our black veterans who served in World War I

  • Henrietta Dismukes Hospital — founded in 1930, became the largest privately owned black hospital in the United States at the time

  • Ya’Sou Restaurant — the ONLY Greek eatery in McDowell County and all of Southern West Virginia

• Welch — formerly “Little New York” but now known as Coaltown, USA

  • Seat of McDowell County

  • Site of the murders of Sid Hatfield and Ed Chambers during the notorious West Virginia Mine Wars

  • Home of the country’s first municipally owned parking garage

  • Hosts the nation’s longest running Veteran’s Day parade in the country since its onset in 1919 — 108 years this year.

• Iaeger — pronounced Yayger

  • Lewis’ Camp 1756 — the Sandy Creek Expedition and Major Andrew Lewis camped here en route to battle Indians who had been raiding settlements

  • Named after Colonel William G.W. Iaeger — McDowell County settler, personal friend of President Abraham Lincoln, Mexican-American War veteran

  • Vital to the Norfolk and Southern Railway and site of photographer O. Winston Link’s “Hot Shot Eastbound” photo

• Bradshaw — Frontier roots

  • Hosts of one of McDowell County’s High Schools — The River View Raiders

  • Frontiersmen Daniel Boone and Simon Kenton crossed the area long before McDowell County’s founding

  • Home of “Joe Coal” and the McDowell County Coal Miner’s Memorial

• War — Miner’s City

  • West Virginia’s most southern city and the only city in the United States with this name

  • Was home of Big Creek High School — alma mater of The Rocket Boys

  • Trailhead of the Hatfield-McCoy Warrior Trail System

• Northfork — Home of the Blue Demons

  • The Basketball Capital of the United States

  • Home of Elizabeth Simpson Drewry — the first black woman elected to the West Virginia Legislature

  • Trailhead of the Hatfield-McCoy Indian Ridge Trail System

• Keystone — Founded in 1892 as Cassville

  • Home of Minnie Buckingham Harper — the first black woman to serve as a member of a state legislative body in the United States

  • Cultural melting pot of black, white, and Jewish heritage

  • Hosted the McDowell Times newspaper — the state’s most read minority newspaper at the time

  ---

This year, along with the Kimball Phoenix Festival and Kimball Kid’s Reunion, the town will host “The Head of the Dragon” on Saturday, June 20. Come Explore McDowell County as there are many sites to see, history to be told, and heritage to experience. Numerous coal camps connect each town and city.

After riding our 91 miles of the Dragon, make sure to continue your adventure with the other Dragon rides. Just over the border, Tazewell County, Virginia is home to “The Back of the Dragon”. Farther east in Virginia, is “The Claw of the Dragon”, and along the Tennessee-North Carolina border you will find “The Tail of the Dragon”. Conquer these legendary stretches of U.S. highways and you have earned the right to call yourself a “Dragon Master”.

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For decades, a staple of McDowell County culture has been riding dirt bikes and ATVs through our rugged mountains. Families and friends would set aside a day, get out the dirt bikes, trail bikes, atvs, and sometimes even street bikes, and ride in the backroads of the mountains.

Enjoying our mountains — the freedom and relief they provide — is one way we connect to our roots.

Montani Semper Liberi — Mountaineers Are Always Free.

And we are free when exploring our awesome mountains.

Part of riding has always been getting muddy. That has always been part of the fun. Who can make the biggest splash through the mud hole? Who can make it the fastest down the trail? Mud, laughter, engines, and mountain air have long gone hand in hand in southern West Virginia.

That spirit is exactly what makes Mountain Mud in Bradshaw such a beloved event.

For the past four years, Bradshaw has hosted Mountain Mud — an event unlike any other in McDowell County. It draws residents and visitors from surrounding counties and neighboring states, all gathering at Eclipse Park with shared goals:

To get muddy, to have fun, and to win.

Spectators are first greeted along the entrance road. If arriving by vehicle, guests are offered the convenience of a hayride into the park — a ride down a one-way gravel road nestled by the railroad on one side and the Dry Fork River on the other.

Those arriving by approved vehicles — dirt bikes, ATVs, and side-by-sides — can travel the road on their own once volunteers confirm the road is clear from oncoming traffic.

When arriving at the park, visitors are once again welcomed by volunteers beneath a canopy where participants can register for events, purchase T-shirts, or gain access to watch the festivities.

Along with the food vendors and activities throughout the park, karaoke was also available during the event, giving attendees another chance to gather, laugh, sing along, and enjoy the day between races and mud runs.

The row of vendors to the left are busy serving hot dogs, hamburgers, funnel cakes, lemonade, and more. This year also welcomed a newer addition — Mountain Mud Coffee Co.

Named after the yearly event itself, the coffee company served coffee, lattes, teas, and specialty drinks beneath its canopy while also serving as this year’s “King of the Mountain” sponsor. The business has now established a café inside Bradshaw Town Hall, further connecting the event to the community that supports it.

Children too young to participate — or simply not ready yet — spend their day playing in smaller mud holes and around the playground equipment. If rain blesses the mountains that day, every child ends up covered from head to toe in mud.

They could not be happier.

Beyond the barrier fence is where the action truly begins.

Riders can tackle the obstacle course, charge through the massive mud trench, or race opponents down the stretch beside the river. The choice is theirs.

The grudge matches are crowd favorites and include riders of nearly every age group and approved machine. Contestants line up at the starting line, wait for the green light, and launch forward in hopes of outrunning their opponent to the finish line.

Boys. Girls. Men. Women.

Everyone lines up for a chance at first place.

Some riders race for speed while others try to impress the crowd with the best wheelie. But no matter the outcome, nearly everyone crossing the finish line is covered in mud flung from spinning tires along the track.

Still, as popular as the grudge matches may be, the mud runs are where things truly become unforgettable.

Beginning with the youngins, competitors attempt to make it through the giant mud trench and reach the goal waiting on the opposite side.

No one comes out clean.

No one leaves upset.

Because getting muddy was the real goal all along.

For many, this is the moment they wait for every year — the reason they come back.

Because gettin’ muddy has never been so fun.

As the day comes to an end, fireworks light the sky while the crowd slowly disperses with muddy clothes, full bellies, tired machines, and memories made.

Once again, the community has gathered for a day of fun, laughter, and mountain tradition.

Those without rides either take the hayride back to the road or choose to walk along the railroad tracks — another pastime many longtime McDowell County residents remember well, though safety was always expected to come first.

And before the night is even over, many participants are already talking about next year.

The date will be marked on calendars.

Plans will already begin.

Because Mountain Mud is more than just an event.

It is a celebration of mountain culture, freedom, friendship, and the simple joy of getting dirty in the hills of southern West Virginia.

Mountain Mud — where gettin’ muddy has never been so fun.

Since 2022, Mountain Mud has been brought to you by:

Explore McDowell, The Town of Bradshaw, and Hillbilly ATV.

As the event has grown, there has been more sponsorships. This year included:

Mountain Mud Coffee Co., Ward’s Wrecker Service, United Rental, Hopkins Medical Association, Moe’s Stop N Shop, Bradshaw/Yukon Medical Clinic, McDowell County Commission, McDowell County Sheriff’s Office, Bradshaw Fire Department and Senator Mark Maynard.

Related Links:

Mountain Mud

Mountain Mud Facebook

Explore McDowell

Bradshaw, WV

Mountain Mud Coffee Co.

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So was the life of Ward Nichols.

McDowell County has produced numerous artists who have made their mark on the world, and Ward Nichols was one of them. Nichols often shared a story that his mother, who named him, may have unknowingly predicted his future from the very beginning. “Ward” spelled backward is “Draw,” and from an early age, that’s exactly what he did.

Nichols began painting at age 12 after receiving a painting kit for Christmas. From that moment on, art became his passion. Before graduating from Welch High School, he was also a trumpet player in the school band. Following high school, he enlisted in the United States Navy.

With the longest-running Veterans Day Parade in the country, McDowell County has always taken pride in honoring veterans. Many local veterans, like many local artists, have gone on to leave their mark far beyond the mountains of southern West Virginia.

Nichols served during the Korean conflict. As a member of the U.S. Navy Jazz Ensemble and a personal staff member of Admiral William T. Carney, he had opportunities to use his artistic talents during his military service. During the formation of NATO, while Admiral Carney served as a representative of the United States in Italy, Nichols designed an insignia identifying NATO members that later became the first Navy-approved unit emblem worn as a shoulder patch by enlisted sailors.

Although Nichols enjoyed sports cars, aviation, sculpting, and photography, he became especially known as a master realist painter. His use of color, blending, and shading became a signature part of his work. Even more remarkable was his ability to overcome one of his greatest obstacles: color blindness.

Nichols’ achievements included:

• Representing the arts during the Apollo 12 moon launch

• Winning more than 30 major awards for painting

• Participating in more than 200 group shows

• Holding 175 solo exhibitions in 94 galleries across 24 states

• Having work included in permanent collections in museums in both the United States and Europe

• Completing three Artist-in-Residence appointments

At age 95, Ward Nichols passed away this year on May 5th in North Wilkesboro, North Carolina.

Nichols believed that “Horizons are not boundaries,” and his life proved exactly that. From Wyoming Street in Welch to galleries and museums across the country and beyond, his talent and determination carried a piece of McDowell County with him wherever he went.

At the present time, Nichols childhood home is being restored. Fittingly, it is located across the street from the Jack Caffrey Arts & Cultural Center at 143 Wyoming Street, Welch.

Ward Nichols’ story and legacy continue to remind us that McDowell Countians possess the grit, determination, and talent to leave a lasting impact on the world.

Check out these Links to know more about Ward Nichols:

Wilkes County Hall of Fame

Blue Ridge Country

Journal-Patriot

Blue Ridge Realists

2021 Interview by Blue Spiral 1

Archival photos of Ward Nichols used for editorial purposes.

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John Ellison entered the world on August 11, 1941, in the hollers of Fayette County.

In the early to mid-1940’s, the Ellison family relocated to Landgraff and John was raised in the coalfields of southern West Virginia. However, at the age of 13, John picked up a guitar and found his passion. He then began to dream of becoming a professional musician. John performed in talent shows and church, and his first paid performance was at the UMWA Hall in Keystone.

Not wanting to become a miner like most men in McDowell County, John left high school while in the 10th grade and worked for the prominent Carter Hotel in Welch. However, John realized that in order to fulfill his dream, he would eventually need to leave his beloved West Virginia mountains behind.

In 1959, John moved to Rochester, New York. While chasing his dream, he joined a band called Soul Brothers Five. After John joined the group, the band became known as Soul Brothers Six. Although there were some band member changes over the years, Soul Brothers Six signed with Atlantic Records and recorded a song that John had written in honor of his then-girlfriend, Ann White. That song, Some Kind of Wonderful, would later become an internationally known hit.

Although Soul Brothers Six eventually disbanded, John went on to collaborate with many notable performers including Joe Frazier, Diana Ross, James Brown, Smokey Robinson, and Patti LaBelle, to name a few.

In the 1970’s, Grand Funk Railroad recorded Some Kind of Wonderful and it rose to #2 on the Billboard Rhythm & Blues chart. Huey Lewis and the News, Ringo Starr, Rod Stewart, and others went on to record the song. Its popularity has led to over 6 million radio plays. In 1994, BMI recognized it as one of the most played songs in the world.

John’s accomplishments throughout his musical career include:

• 7 Lifetime BMI Achievement Awards

• Inductions into:

  • West Virginia Music Hall of Fame

  • Rochester Music Hall of Fame

  • West Virginia Hall of Fame at Pipestem

• Grammy consideration

Some Kind of Wonderful has:

• Been recorded by over 62 artists

• Sold over 4 million copies

• Earned the BMI Special Citation of Achievement Award

Music has never been John’s only passion. Over the years, he has also remained connected to his West Virginia roots through radio and business ventures. John is part of “The Wallace Horn Friendly Neighbor Show,” a longtime Saturday morning live music program on WVOW that showcases West Virginia artists and musicians. He also created “Some Kind of Wonderful Gourmet Seasoning,” bringing the name of his legendary song from the stage into kitchens across the country.

Although John no longer resides in West Virginia, he is always in a “West Virginia State of Mind” — fittingly, the title of one of his songs.

John is still making music today. His 2023 version of Some Kind of Wonderful received Grammy consideration for “Best American Roots Performance,” along with his 2025 album for “Best Americana Album.”

On November 13, 2024, the McDowell County Commission signed a proclamation declaring May 9th as “John Ellison Day” in McDowell County.

Tomorrow, May 8, John will once again return to McDowell County. He and his life’s work will be celebrated in the City of Welch.

In his honor, parade lineup starts at 3:30 p.m. at City Hall, followed by a black-tie concert at the Armory at 6 p.m.

For generations, music from the mountains of southern West Virginia has traveled far beyond the coalfields. Few stories represent that journey better than John Ellison’s.

Check out these links:

John Ellison Music

Some Kind of Wonderful Gourmet Seasoning

Jamming with John Ellison

West Virginia Hall of Fame

Rochester Music Hall of Fame

The Temple Theatre, Welch — and the era when downtown lights never dimmed.

In 1929, a group of Odd Fellows, the Independent Order of Odd Fellows Lodge #158, raised a large building located at 30 McDowell Street, Welch, West Virginia. For the next 56 years this was their temple meeting place, a sacred place for them to improve and elevate the character of mankind through friendship, love, truth, faith, hope, charity, and universal justice, which is their stated mission.

This building became a hub of activity for the City of Welch. While upstairs was reserved for Odd Fellows meetings (complete with kitchen facilities and a massive mural), downstairs is where all the action would unfold. The words “Odd Fellows Temple” are still inscribed on the building today, a lasting reminder of its original purpose.

On the bottom two floors, the Odd Fellows built a theater. The Temple Theater was showing movies by 1932; however, it was not called the Temple Theater until 1943. The Temple operated as a theater from 1932 - 1957, giving it 25 years of McDowell Countians crossing its threshold to enjoy a Saturday matinee or a good western movie.

Similar to most theaters of its time, the Temple had a balcony in the back.

The Temple was smaller in size than its sister theater across the street, “The Pocahontas”. The Pocahontas had over 1200 seats, 1264 to be exact. The Pocahontas would have dances on Saturday mornings then begin showing movies in the afternoon. Local seniors continue to tell stories of the dances they attended at the Pocahontas. A Welch city mayor, L.E. Rogers and his son, “Buddy” managed both theaters in the 1950’s.

🎥 Watch: Welch’s Theater Era (Temple + Pocahontas)

The Temple and Pocahontas theaters are discussed around the 34:40 mark.

Welch’s theaters weren’t just buildings—they were where the town gathered.

Once the theater closed in 1957, the downstairs was empty until Raymond Bean started “Raymond’s Restaurant” in the space. Like the theater, Raymond’s was a community hub. Many dinners, parties, and meetings were hosted by Raymond and his wife, Ann. The neon sign that said “Raymond’s” still hangs on the Temple today. Most McDowell Countians remember going to eat at Raymond’s for one occasion or the other. Mr. Bean passed away in 2017.

Layers of history still show through—if you know where to look.

On November 2018, the building was sold and became the Coal Grill & Bar. The Coal Grill & Bar had a small restaurant in the front of the Temple for a family setting and a bar in the back for those who liked to grab a drink or play a little pool. The Coal Grill & Bar operated for a couple of years.

Once again, the building was sold and now hosts Latin Appalachian. Latin Appalachian is ran by Chef Robert “Taco Man” Diaz. This is the place you go to for authentic Mexican food in Welch. Make sure to visit Taco Man and enjoy his version of “Appalachian Mexican” cooking. You will NOT be disappointed.

From day to day, no one ever really knows what might be on the menu. One visit might bring authentic Mexican, the next could be Chinese dishes or something as simple and comforting as beans and cornbread. It’s part of what makes Latin Appalachian unique. Be sure to check out Latin Appalachian on Facebook to see what’s cooking before you go.

Robert and Sarah, his wife, are currently remodeling the Temple and hope to have more facilities to accommodate locals and visitors, alike.

The Pocahontas Theater, unfortunately, burnt August 23, 1980. The iconic “Theaters” Marquee was then removed even though the Temple had closed 23 years before. Fortunately, Marquee Cinemas built a new theater in Welch in 2003 on the western end of Howard Street. Marquee operated the new theater until 2021. At that time, the City of Welch stepped in and has operated the theater ever since. Since the February 2025 flood, the theater has been under repairs, but the city is working fervently to open the doors to the public once again.

After 97 years, the Temple still stands. Make sure to stop by, have a taco, and remember the history of the Temple.

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Then you need to visit Anawalt Wildlife Management Area.

📍 Tucked away. Easy to miss. Impossible to forget.

Anawalt Wildlife Management Area is a sportsman’s—or sportswoman’s—dream come true. Nestled off to itself up a country, graveled road, the lake comes into view on your right as you top the hill just past the spillway.

The lake is listed on Birding Hotspots as a great place to go “birding.” The best part is, you may not need binoculars to see native West Virginia birds, including our beautiful state bird, the Cardinal, along with Carolina Chickadees, Wrens, Blue Jays, Bluebirds, and many others.

Most times, you can hear the sound of a woodpecker or two.

At certain times of the year, you may even catch sight of a pheasant or a rafter of turkeys strutting their stuff.

Don’t forget to bring a camera—and maybe even a recorder.

According to the WV DNR, Anawalt Lake was stocked today with “Gold Rush” golden rainbow trout.

The lake also hosts bluegill, largemouth bass, and channel catfish.

Before you cast your line, make sure you have your West Virginia Fishing License. Then grab your chair, rod, and reel—and get lakeside.

You just might catch dinner.

And if you’re lucky… you might even catch that perfect moment—a fish breaking the surface.

Anawalt Lake is also a prime location for nature walks.

A path circles the lake, giving you a full view from every angle. But remember—we are visitors here.

Some wildlife may ignore you. Some may be curious. Others… not so much.

Stay aware. Stay respectful.

If you’re a photographer, this place is something special.

Day or night, the lake gives you time—real time—to slow down and create. Adjust your shutter speed. Set your ISO. Frame the shot exactly how you want it.

There’s no rush here.

Just you, your camera… and the moment.

Anawalt Wildlife Management Area spans 1,792 acres of hardwood forest—oak, hickory, and poplar—surrounding a 7-acre lake.

That leaves plenty of space for hunting and exploration.

If you plan to hunt, make sure you have your West Virginia Hunting License. Black bear, grouse, turkey, squirrel, and white-tailed deer all call this area home.

Take only what you need—and leave no trace.

Never poach.

Respect the land.

Leave the land as you found it. Always dispose of litter.

📅 COMMUNITY EVENT

On May 2, 2026, the Kiwanis will host their annual Kids Fishing Day at Anawalt.

If you have children, this is a day you don’t want to miss.

Fishing rods. Food. Gifts.

And a chance to slow down and enjoy something simple.

Nowadays, life feels rushed.

Rush here. Rush there.

But places like this still exist.

Take a moment and chill.

Visit Anawalt Lake.

You won’t be disappointed.

This is one of the few places in McDowell County that is NOT ATV/dirt bike friendly. Also, there is no swimming or boating on Anawalt Lake.

(The lake is managed by the West Virginia Division of Natural Resources.)

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If you have ever stayed or visited Ashland Resort or traveled Route 52 from Bluefield to Welch, you have been to the basketball capital of the United States.

Photo courtesy of “8: The Story of the Northfork Blue Demons” (Facebook)

From 1974–1981, a McDowell County high school trampled the competition in AA basketball at the West Virginia state tournaments. Coach Jennings Boyd led the Northfork Blue Demons to 8 STRAIGHT West Virginia AA championships.

During the streak, the “Demon Den”—Northfork High’s gymnasium—never had a loss. Coach Boyd’s record for that time was 102–5, with those 5 losses occurring before the streak. The Blue Demons did lose some games during those seasons, but never at home in Northfork at the Demon Den.

Photo courtesy of “8: The Story of the Northfork Blue Demons” (Facebook)

During those years, basketball enthusiasm and hometown pride reached peak levels in Northfork. All through Northfork, McDowell County, and West Virginia, basketball courts were filled with youth wanting to be a Blue Demon—or to beat the Blue Demons. During the 8 STRAIGHT, the Blue Demons reigned supreme.

The Blue Demons were so loved by Northfork that fundraisers were held to send the teams to Charleston. Residents stood along the road collecting money just to help the team make the trip.

A local restaurant, The Coffee Shop, just a short walk from the school, had their famous “Demon Burgers.” Needless to say, those were the best burgers in McDowell County until the coffee shop closed in 2015. Many McDowell County residents still fondly recall visiting the Coffee Shop for a super huge Demon Burger.

Photo courtesy of “Northfork Blue Demons Championship Teams” (Facebook)

In 1985, Northfork High School was consolidated with Welch and Gary High Schools to form Mount View High School.

In 2001 and 2002, the high school endured flood damage. In 2020, Northfork High School and the Demon Den were demolished due to health and safety reasons.

The Northfork Blue Demons are not just legends. They are true McDowell Countians who performed an unbelievable task that has yet to be outperformed.

The Blue Demons will continue to live on in the hollers of McDowell County.

🗣 Voices of Northfork

Russel Todd:

“There was basketball—and that was it. Everything was the Blue Demons.”

“Everybody around knew who you were.”

Ron Spencer:

“We’d have a basketball game…and unload coal before the game.”

“We stood at the traffic light and had a bucket… people would come by and make donations.”

“If they weren’t giving 100 percent… that wasn’t acceptable.”
— Gary Dove

🏀 Blue Demons State Records

Northfork State Championship Scores (1974–1981):

• 1974 — Northfork 76, Huntington Vinson 58

• 1975 — Northfork 97, Warwood 83

• 1976 — Northfork 59, Huntington Vinson 55

• 1977 — Northfork 78, Winfield 57

• 1978 — Northfork 57, Mount Hope 46

• 1979 — Northfork 78, Winfield 66

• 1980 — Northfork 60, Winfield 54

• 1981 — Northfork 53, Dunbar 50

🔗 Notable Mentions

• “History followed Northfork to National Records” - The Shepherdstown Chronicle

• Nearly Half a Century Later, Northfork’s Rich Basketball History Not Forgotten” - WV Metro News

• “A look back…Northfork, W Va. Amazing Championships Run” - Stateline Sports Network

🎥 Videos

1979 West Virginia AA State Championship Basketball Game

1980 West Virginia AA State Championship Basketball Game

Northfork High School Blue Demons PM Magazine Feature Story

Blue Demons: A West Virginia Legacy

📍 Trail Stop Experience

Location: Northfork, WV (along Route 52)

What to Look For:

• The “Basketball Capital of the United States” sign

• Former site of Northfork High School / Demon Den

• Local stories from residents

What You’ll Feel:
A place where basketball wasn’t just a sport—it was identity, pride, and purpose.

🟢 Keep Exploring McDowell

This is just one stop.

McDowell County is full of stories like this—
places you’ve passed… names you’ve heard… legends you didn’t know were real.

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Miles and miles of railroad track were laid in order to export the tons of coal being mined from the rich seams of McDowell county’s bountiful mountains.

From Jenkinjones across a wooden trestle still standing today and Leckie through the Gary Country Club golf course and out of Skygusty, from Bishop and Vallscreek to War through Yukon, English, Bartley and down to Bradshaw and Iaeger, miles of track are still in use although some has been retired and even removed.

However, of all the track laid in McDowell county, the most important and still very much used today is the Mainline.

The Mainline travels the hollers from Bluefield in Mercer county, to Maybeury, through many McDowell County communities and towns including Northfork, Keystone, KImball, and Welch before meeting up with the line from Bradshaw into Iaeger.

The mainline has not one, but 2 tracks.

One would think that with 2 tracks, one would act as a vein into McDowell county and the other as an artery out. The problem is, the track only carries goods through McDowell county and the county’s coal out.

Nothing stops along the way to replenish the place that has long fueled the state of West Virginia, the nation, and now other countries of the world.

The mainline not only travels through the hollers, by the rivers, creeks, and streams, through the towns and beside the highways, it makes it’s way through many tunnels in McDowell County’s mountainous terrain.

Twin Branch Tunnel

One such tunnel is the Twin Branch Tunnel.

The Twin Branch tunnel was cut out of pure rock in the 1890’s. At that time, only one line of track had been laid. The tunnel was just big enough to allow the narrow steam engines of the time to puff its load up or down the track.

Because the tunnel provided quick access to shopping in the town of Davy from Marytown instead of going the long way around through the community of Twin Branch, the people would take the shortcut and walk through the tunnel.

One interesting personal story can be found here:
👉 Tunnel between Twin Branch and Davy in the Coalfields of WV

Alice Walker, executive director of SAFE and a lifelong resident of Twin Branch, says that she misses driving through the tunnel. She stated that, as a child, she had been told there was a witch buried somewhere inside the tunnel.

During her high school years, fires were built inside the tunnel to prevent the school bus from traveling through—therefore canceling school for the children on the other side.

Once coal exportation grew and another track was laid, the mainline took a turn and no longer needed to utilize the Twin Branch tunnel.

The track was removed and access to the tunnel was allowed for automobiles to pass through one at a time and became a part of WV route 7.

That tunnel was used until about 2020 by vehicles on a daily basis.

After 2020, the tunnel was closed to daily traffic.

Although, it does to this day attract visitors who walk though, video, and exclaim how awesome it is that it’s still standing and was used for over a century by McDowell county residents.

The railroad has been a lifeline for McDowell county to export and sell our coal. It has provided employment on the rails or by a means of proxy through the coal companies.

We still hear those long train whistles—some seem as ghost trains when you hear them echoing over the mountains.

As long as those whistles continue to blow, McDowell county will continue to thrive.

Take the walk. Stand in the tunnel. Listen for the whistle.

If you would like to know more, check out the links below:

• Bridgehunters - Specifics of the tunnel

• Bramwell, WV - A History of Twin Branch

• Marsha Moses - Blog post telling an old story of the tunnel

• Jacqueline Chanda Fine Art - Oil on Canvas Painting of the tunnel

If you know a McDowell County story that needs told, please contact us!

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We know others will argue that point — every state has its defenders. But West Virginia is different.

No other place is called “Almost Heaven.”

And once you’ve stood on our mountains… you will understand why.

West Virginia is the only state completely within the Appalachian region, and nowhere is that more evident than in the way our mountains surround us.

They don’t just stand.

They hold you.

They rise up like guardians, wrapping around towns and hollows, ridges and valleys — like a quiet voice reminding you:

You are mine.

Mountain Momma cares for us, protects us, and welcomes us home — no matter how far you’ve been.

Our country roads brings us all back home; especially, to McDowell County.

In 2022, West Virginia Tourism launched the Almost Heaven swings — placing large wooden swings at some of the most scenic overlooks across the state.

From mountaintops to parks and overlooks, each swing invites visitors to slow down, sit for a moment, and take in the beauty that surrounds them. In fact, there are now dozens of swings across the state, each offering its own unforgettable view.

In June 2025, McDowell County’s swing found its home on Miracle Mountain, up #9 Hollow in Gary.

There couldn’t have been a more perfect place.

Miracle Mountain has long been part of McDowell County’s story — a place filled with memories, gatherings, and quiet moments. At one time, it was the home of the Sandlick Country Club.

For one woman, it was everything.

Shelby Thompson, the caretaker of Miracle Mountain Wilderness Park, had a dream of bringing an Almost Heaven swing to the mountain she loved.

When that dream finally became reality, her joy was immeasurable.

She was one of the very first to sit on the swing, take in that view, and capture that moment.

Just one month later, Shelby passed away.

Shelby’s dream lives on in every person who drives that country road….
every visitor who sits in that swing…
every photograph taken against the backdrop of McDowell County’s ridges.

What a view it is.

From that seat, the mountains roll out in every direction — ridge after ridge, fading into the horizon. It’s the kind of view that stops conversation. The kind that makes you breathe a little deeper.

The kind that reminds you what Almost Heaven really means.

Travelers now cross the state collecting photos of these swings — one by one, chasing views and memories.

Slowly, but surely, more of them are finding their way to McDowell County.

To Miracle Mountain.
To Shelby’s dream.

While these mountains are home to us…

For visitors, they offer something just as powerful:

A reason to come back.

Make the trip to Miracle Mountain.
Drive our country roads.
Sit in the swing.

And when you do… you’ll understand why we call McDowell County our home.

📍 Miracle Mountain – Gary, West Virginia

A featured stop on the Explore McDowell Tourism Trail

Check out West Virginia Tourism’s Swingo Challenge!

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Through Explore McDowell, we’re sharing the stories, landmarks, and hidden places that make this region unique.

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Joe Coal

Along the winding road of Route 83 in the town of Bradshaw, a silent sentinel stands watch over McDowell County’s coal heritage. Locals know him as “Joe Coal.”

Day after day, Joe Coal stands tall, representing every McDowell County coal miner whose names are etched into the granite slabs surrounding him and beneath his feet. The monument honors generations of miners whose labor deep beneath these mountains helped power America for more than a century.

Coal built McDowell County, West Virginia, and America. It fueled the homes, factories, railroads, and industries that helped shape the modern United States. The miners who worked these seams were known for their grit, determination, and courage—descending daily into the darkness of the earth to extract the fuel that kept the nation moving.

During World War II, coal miners were considered essential to the war effort. The coal they produced helped power the steel mills that forged battleships, tanks, and other equipment used by Allied forces across the Atlantic. In many ways, the work done deep inside McDowell County’s mountains reached battlefields thousands of miles away.

This memorial exists because the community believed those sacrifices should never be forgotten.

In 1992, the Sandy River District Action Committee (SARDAC) organized a grassroots effort to create a monument honoring the county’s miners. Through their dedication—and the support of families across McDowell County—the Coal Miner’s Memorial became a reality. Since then, families have continued adding the names of their fathers, grandfathers, brothers, and sons to the granite panels surrounding Joe Coal.

The memorial remembers not only those lost in mining accidents—explosions, roof falls, blackdamp, and other dangers of underground work—but also those who suffered later in life from black lung and silicosis, illnesses that follow many miners long after they leave the mines.

While the monument honors the miners of the past, it also stands as a reminder that coal mining continues today. Across the mountains of southern West Virginia, modern miners still work hard every day—many in surface mining operations—to produce the coal that helps power homes, industries, and steel production across the country.

Just like the underground miners before them, these men and women continue a tradition of hard work and resilience that has defined the coalfields for generations.

While Joe Coal calls Bradshaw home, he has a distant cousin in nearby Kimball known as “Mack Dowell.” Mack is a figurine made from coal and produced by Coal Camp Creations, a business that celebrates the region’s coal heritage through handcrafted items. For years, Mack was available to visitors, and the town of Kimball looks forward to sharing him with the public again when Coal Camp Creations reopens.

Until then, Joe Coal remains standing strong —lifted up by the memories of the men whose names surround him.

Visitors are welcome to stop and walk among the granite slabs, reading the names of miners who spent their lives underground. Many families discover familiar names among them, a powerful reminder of just how deeply coal mining shaped life in McDowell County.

Why this stop matters

The McDowell County Coal Miner’s Memorial is more than a monument—it is a place of remembrance for the men who built these communities and powered a nation. For travelers exploring McDowell County’s coal heritage, it serves as an important stop along the region’s developing Explore McDowell Heritage Trail, alongside sites like Wilmore Dam and the Ashland Company Store.

It’s a place where history is not just something you read about—it’s carved in stone.

Take a moment to pull over and visit Joe Coal. Walk around the monument and read the names etched into the granite. You may recognize one—or several.

In McDowell County, coal mining history isn’t just part of the past.

It’s part of the family.

Want to add a miner?

The memorial continues to grow. Families who wish to have a miner’s name added to the monument may contact Geneva Steele with SARDAC at (304) 967-7840.

Many riders make it a point to drive down to the dam with the water streaming down as their backdrop and snap a picture before continuing their ride through the mountains. Over time, the dam has become one of those places riders like to say they’ve visited — a quiet landmark along the trail.

The calm water, the surrounding mountains, and the sense of being deep in the Appalachian landscape make it a natural place to pause.

But long before trail riders discovered Wilmore Dam, the reservoir served a very different purpose.

🎥 Watch the ride in to Wilmore Dam below.

Wilmore Dam near Iaeger, West Virginia along Clear Fork in McDowell County.

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Built for the Age of Steam

In the early 1900s, McDowell County was one of the most productive coal regions in the United States. Railroads ran constantly through the valleys, hauling coal from the mountains to industries across the country.

At that time, trains were powered by steam locomotives, and steam engines required enormous amounts of water.

Reservoirs like Wilmore Dam were built to supply that water to locomotives operating along the lines of the Norfolk and Western Railway, which carried coal from the Pocahontas coalfields to markets nationwide.

Located along Clear Fork near Iaeger, Wilmore Dam became part of the infrastructure that helped keep the coal trains moving through southern West Virginia.

Though small compared to the mines and rail yards that once dominated the region, reservoirs like this were an essential part of the system that powered the coalfields.

From Coal Trains to Trail Riders

Today, the steam locomotives that once depended on reservoirs like Wilmore Dam are part of history.

The railroads remain, but the era of steam has long passed.

The mountains of McDowell County, however, remain much the same.

Where coal trains once moved through the valleys, visitors now travel the region’s trails by ATV and UTV, exploring the same hills and ridges that helped shape the county’s past.

And along those trails, places like Wilmore Dam have taken on a new role.

A Photo Stop With a Story

For many riders today, Wilmore Dam is simply a beautiful place to stop — a quiet stretch of water surrounded by mountains.

But behind that peaceful setting lies a reminder of the era when these mountains helped power a nation.

Today, riders stop to take pictures where locomotives once stopped for water.

And in McDowell County, that connection between history, landscape, and the trail is never very far away.

Explore More McDowell County

McDowell County is filled with places like Wilmore Dam — quiet corners of the mountains where history and landscape meet.

Through Explore McDowell, we’re sharing the stories, landmarks, and hidden places that make this region unique.

If you enjoy discovering the history and beauty of southern West Virginia, consider subscribing so you don’t miss future stories.

Music Credit

Acoustic/Folk Instrumental — Hyde
https://soundcloud.com/davidhydemusic
Licensed under Creative Commons CC BY 3.0
Music promoted by Audio Library

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At the height of the coal boom, Keystone was one of the most dynamic towns in southern West Virginia. Immigrants, merchants, Black miners, and entrepreneurs filled its streets. Nearby Welch and Keystone were home to thriving Jewish and African American communities, contributing to the region’s commercial and civic life.

It was here, around 1900, that Matthew T. Whittico made his mark.

Whittico was not merely a resident — he was a voice. In 1904, he founded the McDowell Times, a newspaper devoted to “the interest of the Negro Race — His Social and Political Rights.” For nearly four decades, the paper championed civil rights, education, and political awareness across the coalfields. With a reported circulation of 5,000, it became one of the most widely read newspapers in McDowell County.

It was also Whittico who coined the phrase “Free State of McDowell.”

The words captured the fierce independence and self-determination of a county that, during its coalfield prime, operated with confidence, prosperity, and cultural complexity unlike anywhere else in Appalachia. The phrase remains one of the most powerful expressions of McDowell County identity.

The First Black Presbyterian Church in West Virginia

Whittico’s influence extended beyond the printed page.

Alongside William Drewry, an attorney and educator, and J. A. Davis, a preacher and teacher, he helped establish what would become the first Black Presbyterian congregation in West Virginia.

Completed in 1924, the Whittico Presbyterian Church stood as a spiritual anchor for Keystone’s Black community. Within these walls, sermons were preached, leaders were shaped, and families found strength during an era when opportunity and hardship often stood side by side in the coal camps.

William Drewry’s wife, Elizabeth Drewry, would later become the first Black woman elected to the West Virginia State Legislature in 1950 — another thread in the county’s remarkable story of leadership.

A Living Legacy

As coal production declined in the late twentieth century, so too did Keystone’s population. By 2012, church membership had dwindled to five. Today, one member — Mrs. Vondelere Scott — remains a living link to its congregation’s history.

The nonprofit organization WATT (We Are The Teachers), based in McDowell County, has acquired the church and is working to restore it as a youth community center. The effort ensures that the building will once again serve education, community, and opportunity — the very values Whittico championed.

Why This Stop Matters

The story of McDowell County is more than coal tonnage and company towns. It is a story of voices — of leaders who believed in education, faith, civic responsibility, and the power of the press.

Standing before the Whittico Presbyterian Church, visitors encounter a powerful truth: the Free State of McDowell was built not only by industry, but by individuals who insisted on dignity, representation, and community.

Here, history is not distant. It stands quietly along the roadside — waiting to be rediscovered.

A Sound from the Past

The hymn embedded below was recorded inside Whittico Presbyterian Church and performed by Rhonda Farley in March of 2012. It reflects the sacred atmosphere and enduring spirit of this historic congregation.

📚 Sources & Further Reading

• West Virginia Culture & History Archive

• Digital preservation of the McDowell Times (1904–1941)

• WATT (We Are The Teachers), McDowell County — restoration and organizational history of Whittico Presbyterian Church.

If you enjoy stories that preserve the heritage of the southern West Virginia coalfields, consider subscribing to Explore McDowell.

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Built in 1907 by the Ashland Coal Company, the Ashland Company Store was never just a storefront. It was the commercial, civic, and social heart of the coal camp of Ashland.

From its counters, miners collected wages in scrip (non-legal company issued currency). Families purchased groceries and dry goods. The building housed the company pay office, later the U.S. Post Office, and for decades served as the central gathering point for the community. Behind the store stood a gymnasium, which held basketball games and local events.

In 1943, the original store burned and the warehouse across the street transformed into Ashland’s primary company store. The post office remained in operation there until 1991, tying the small coal camp to the wider world.

For nearly a century, daily life passed through those doors.

The Store Today

More than 100 years after its construction, the Ashland Company Store remains active — not as a relic, but as a working part of modern McDowell County.

Today it serves as a full-service convenience store and outfitter hub, especially for visitors lodging at Ashland Resort or riding the nearby Indian Ridge Trailhead of the Hatfield-McCoy Trails.

Modern offerings include:

- Groceries, snacks, drinks, and everyday essentials

- ATV and riding supplies

- Trail permits and maps

- West Virginia souvenirs

- Polaris RZR rentals for off-road exploration

Inside, the Coal Camp Café serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner — continuing the tradition of the store as a place where people gather, talk, and share stories.

In many ways, the purpose hasn’t changed. The faces may be different — trail riders instead of coal miners — but the building still provides what the community and its visitors need.

A Living Landmark

Unlike many company stores that have disappeared, the Ashland Company Store stands intact and operational. Original architectural features remain visible inside the historic brick structure, preserving the character of the early 20th-century coal era.

Its story reflects the broader story of southern West Virginia:

- Built by coal

- Sustained by community

- Adapted through change

- Still standing

To learn more about current hours, services, or trail access, visit the official site:

👉 Ashland Company Store

The Ashland Company Store is not just a preserved building.

It is proof that history here is not frozen in time — it evolves, adapts, and continues to serve the people of McDowell County.

If you enjoy stories that preserve the heritage of the southern West Virginia coalfields, consider subscribing to Explore McDowell.

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These murders were retaliation to the events that occurred in Matewan on May 19, 1920. On that day, ten people met their Maker after a brutal gun fight in the middle of town. Of those ten, seven were Baldwin-Felts detectives of Bluefield, West Virginia. Of the dead was Al and Lee Felts, brothers of Thomas Felts who had not accompanied them to Matewan. Thomas Felts along with William Baldwin owned the Baldwin-Felts Agency.

However, Hatfield and Chambers were not in Welch for what happened in Matewan. The duo were charged with conspiring to shoot up Mohawk, McDowell County, in an effort to unionize the miners.

At the time of the shooting, Hatfield’s attorney, CJ Van Fleet was in a meeting with McDowell County Prosecuting Attorney GL Counts. Van Fleet had requested a change in venue to Greenbrier County which was granted.

More than one hundred people that day witnessed the heartless murders of the two as they were slain with their wives by their sides. Of those witnesses were LH Ellis, a West Virginia State Trooper and Walter Mitchell, Welch Chief of Police.

The Baldwin-Felts detectives who brazenly stood at the top of the courthouse steps with barrels blazing were CE Lively, Buster Pence, and Bill Salter. Their ruthless actions were typical of the agency detectives who had been hired by coal company owners and operators to evict miners and their families when they would strike against the companies in an effort to unionize. They executed their tasks with cruelty and absolution.

Hatfield and Chambers were unarmed that fateful day in Welch. Ed Chambers had been the first shot, but was not the first to die. As he lay there on the courthouse steps, one of the agents walked down to where he lay and fired a fatal shot into his head as his wife was by his side. The detectives mentioned were indicted for murder; however, they were acquitted as they claimed their actions were self-defense.

The names of Sid Hatfield and Ed Chambers are almost synonymous with the Mine Wars of West Virginia. They stood with the United Mine Workers of America and Mother Jones to fight for the people of the southern coalfields. Their legacy lives on in books, “Matewan” the movie, and “Terror of the Tug” a play written by Jean Battlo, a lifelong McDowell County resident.

As Hatfield’s and Chamber’s bullet ridden bodies laid on the courthouse steps of Welch, McDowell County, West Virginia, the courthouse clock struck eleven.

For more information, please visit the West Virginia Mine Wars Museum and PBS American Experience The Mine Wars.

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The Jack Caffrey Arts & Cultural Center, located at 143 Wyoming Street in Welch, stands quietly along the street, its history written into the brick and mortar. Over the years, this building has served many purposes for the people of McDowell County—first as a post office, then as the Ashworth DeSoto Car Dealership, and later as a NAPA Auto Parts store. Today, it serves once again as a place for the community to gather.

The Center opened its doors in 2019, made possible through the vision of Reba Honaker, former mayor of Welch, who believed McDowell County deserved a space dedicated to the arts, culture, and shared experiences. It was named in honor of Jack Caffrey, one of Welch’s most respected and influential leaders. As chief engineer for U.S. Steel, Caffrey worked to improve life and opportunity in the county, helped bring a federal prison to McDowell County, and played an important role in establishing the McDowell Public Library program.

From the outside, the Caffrey Center is easy to miss, marked only by a simple sign above the door. Step inside, though, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by the story of Coal Country—artifacts from McDowell County, educational memorabilia, and everyday items once found in coal camp homes. For many visitors, these pieces stir memories of family, hard work, and a way of life that shaped the mountains.

The Center has welcomed visitors from across the United States and from places as far away as France, Costa Rica, Germany, the Netherlands, South Wales, and Guatemala, all drawn by the history and hospitality found inside its walls.

Those walls have held more than artifacts. They’ve echoed with music, laughter, and conversation, hosting concerts, weddings, parties, meetings, and community events. In 2022, the Center was proud to host the Smithsonian traveling exhibition Crossroads, further connecting McDowell County’s story to the nation’s larger narrative.

The Center is home to McDowell County Convention & Visitor’s Bureau, Chamber of Commerce, and Historical Society.

The Jack Caffrey Arts & Cultural Center is open Monday from 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and Tuesday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Those wishing to host an event or learn more are encouraged to call (304) 436-5392.

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What enters your mind when you first hear the word Coalwood?

For many born and raised in McDowell County, Coalwood brings to mind the community situated between Welch and Caretta along Route 16. We picture the coal camp houses, the machine shop, the company apartments, and the Methodist church — not only in our mind’s eye, but still in existence today.

For those unfamiliar with McDowell County, but familiar with Coalwood, a different image often comes to mind. The film October Sky and the memoir Rocket Boys are usually the first associations.

Coalwood lies within the National Coal Heritage Area and, like many McDowell County communities, was shaped by coal mining through the Olga Coal Company. Coal mining has deep roots in McDowell County and in its people.

However, the Rocket Boys made a decision to travel a different road than the one that led deep into the earth. They chose a path less traveled — one that led to the stars.

In 1957, the Rocket Boys launched the first of many rockets from what is now known as Cape Coalwood. Although they experienced many failures, they also achieved success — launches that ultimately helped shape paths far beyond the coalfields.

After the publication of Rocket Boys and the release of the film October Sky, Coalwood became more than a coal mining community in McDowell County, West Virginia. It became a place where many realized that through hard work and innovation, reaching for the stars was possible — regardless of background, resources, or location.

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Our mission is to share McDowell County’s stories with honesty, pride, and purpose — honoring our past while supporting our future.

This Substack is published by the McDowell County Convention & Visitors Bureau and is dedicated to sharing the stories, places, and people that define McDowell County, West Virginia.

McDowell County is often described through its history alone — its coal heritage, company towns, and Appalachian roots. While that history matters deeply, it is only part of a much larger story. This publication exists to help tell the full picture: where we’ve been, where we are now, and where we’re headed.

What We Share

• Stories from across McDowell County’s towns and communities • Updates on tourism, events, and local attractions
• Features on local history, culture, and heritage
• Spotlights on businesses, artists, and community initiatives

• Reflections on growth, challenges, and opportunity

Who This Is For

This space is for residents, former residents who still feel connected to home, visitors planning to explore the area, and anyone interested in Appalachian culture, rural tourism, and community storytelling.

Free & Paid Subscriptions

Free subscribers receive regular updates, stories, and features highlighting McDowell County’s people, places, and events. Much of this publication will always remain free and accessible.

Paid subscribers help support expanded storytelling and may receive access to in-depth features, special series, archival material, and exclusive updates as this publication grows. Paid subscriptions directly support the continued work of sharing McDowell County’s story.

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If you’d like to follow along, we invite you to subscribe. Subscribing ensures new posts are delivered directly to your inbox and helps support continued storytelling about McDowell County.

— McDowell County Convention & Visitors Bureau

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